Douglas AG

Douglas AG

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Q1 FY2026 · Earnings Call TranscriptFebruary 11, 2026

Operator

Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the Douglas Group Q1 2025/2026 earnings results conference call. I am Irida, the chorus call operator.

I would like to remind you that all participants will be in listen-only mode, and the conference has been recorded. The presentation will be followed by a Q&A session.

You can register for questions at any time by pressing * and 1 on your telephone. For operator assistance, please press * and 0.

The conference must not be recorded for publication or broadcast. At this time, it's my pleasure to hand over to Sander van der Laan, CEO.

Please go ahead.

Sander van der Laan

Thank you very much, operator, and good morning to all of you at our, let's say, quarterly Q1 results release. As we have released a trading statement just a few weeks ago where we talked about our sales growth in the first quarter, and we also gave you our preliminary, let's say, EBITDA number for that quarter.

Basically, today we are reconfirming those numbers, and we are providing more numbers and background and context, and clearly, I will not do that alone. I will do that with the support of Marco, our CFO.

The agenda for today is I will give a brief introduction. Subsequently, I will hand over to Marco.

He will give an update on the Q1 financials. I will come back then with a strategy and business highlight section, and then we will have an opportunity to first wrap up and then to move into Q&A.

The Douglas Group continues to be a well-positioned beauty company. We are the leading omnichannel premium beauty retailer in Europe.

We have four retail brands, two omnichannel brands, Douglas and Nocibé, and two pure-play brands, Parfumdreams and Niche Beauty in our portfolio. We currently operate in 22 omnichannel countries, we do deliver to more countries with our pure-play business, but our omnichannel business for now is focusing on 22 countries.

For this year, we also have no plans to move to the 23rd country. We had by the end of December 36 61 million-plus Beauty Card members, we have the largest, let's say, CRM program in premium beauty of Europe.

We reported €4.6 billion of sales for the year 2024/2025, and we are doing that with almost 2,000, actually with 1,907 plus 1,970 brick-and-mortar stores, plus 22 omnichannel e-commerce stores in the omnichannel market, we basically have 2,000 stores at this point in time. That is basically, I would say, the elevator pitch for the Douglas Group.

If we specifically zoom in on the first quarter, from the 1st of October till the 31st of December, what we see is that our e-com business did well and has, I would say, a healthy sales momentum with 4.2% sales growth. That includes our so-called cross-channel services, and Marco will give you a bit more perspective on the size and the development and the relevance of our cross-channel services.

So 4.2% growth in the e-com channel. What we do see is that clearly customers are quite uncertain about, let's say, the outlook of the world, the outlook of their wallet, and also the outlook of, I would say, society.

That leads to, I would say, more uncertainty and also more volatility between quarters, between months, between countries, and between channels. We see more swings, I would say, within our business versus what we have seen before, but by the end of the day, it adds up to a sales growth number for the group of 1.7% in Q1, which basically means that we did almost €1.7 billion of net sales, 0.4% growth in the stores, which is a combination of like-for-like, in this case, a negative like-for-like, although we need to give a certain nuance, and Marco will come back on that, and clearly our new stores and also our refurbished stores are bringing incremental sales.

We delivered €333.7 million of EBITDA. That's an EBITDA margin of 19.9%.

Clearly, this is the biggest quarter in terms of sales and certainly in terms of EBITDA, albeit our EBITDA margin rate and also EBITDA euros was below last year, and we also will explain that. We delivered €144.8 million of net income, and we ended the quarter with a net leverage of 2.6.

However, that is a combination of leases and financial debt, and purely on the financial debt, our leverage is actually 1. 1.4.

The financial debt actually came down. Talking about the market environment, the premium beauty market in which we operate is currently growing, albeit at a lower pace.

Post-COVID, there was a significant acceleration of the market, and in the past kind of year and a half, we see a significant slowdown of the market growth across Europe. Especially in Germany and France, which is our number one, Germany, and number two, France, market, we see a more significant slowdown, and basically you could say that in Germany and France, the market are flattish.

I will show a bit more details on that on the next page. The Netherlands has been really tough, has been in decline in the past quarter, and the rest of Europe has basically slowed down, but in CEE and SE, Central Eastern Europe and in Southern Europe, we still see growth, albeit a lower growth versus the prior years.

We also see that customers are cutting back on certain expenses, or they're waiting for the promo. They're waiting for basically a better deal, and that has an impact on our gross profit.

If you would ask us, are we promoting more? Then I would say, no, it's not that we are putting more promos, let's say, in the basket, but what we do see is that customers are looking more for promos.

They wait for the promo deal, and that has an impact on, let's say, certainly on our margin and sales development. Overall, I would say we have a mixed sales development during the quarter, characterized by more volatility between periods and also between countries.

If you look to the to the to our operating territory on the next page, we currently operate in 22 countries, and basically for eight, nine of those countries, we do have external market data. We are working with three different providers.

We work with Circana for basically Germany, France, Spain, and Italy. We work with Nielsen for the Netherlands, because there is no Circana for the Netherlands.

We we work with Vector for Poland, Czech, Slovakia, and Romania. The market definitions for those three agencies are not the same, be aware that it's not it's not always the same, but it does give kind of a clear indication of what happens.

When you look to the individual markets, you can see a pretty wide, I would say, spread of performance. Our number one, Germany, and number two market, France, are showing are in this quarter showing a slight growth, 0.8%, and France basically being flat, which is a slight improvement versus the quarters before.

France was in decline, the market, before this quarter, and Germany was real flat before the quarter, you could say it's now plus zero. Italy, Spain still showing healthy growth, slowdown versus the quarters before, but not too bad.

The Netherlands is a very big, I would say, negative outlier. Not so long ago, the Netherlands did almost double-digit growth in terms of market, and also we did very well, but now the Netherlands is is particularly negative in this quarter.

More recently and in this quarter, we see a slight improvement, but still still negative. Then you see the CEE markets, which which all show, I would say, healthy growth, and although these numbers are less versus what we've seen in the years before, still healthy growth on the back of, I would say, growing wealth and also on an growth of the premium beauty market, and within that market, we are doing relatively well.

When you combine those night nine markets and you also put weight them, then basically, in those nine markets, the average growth was 1.8 85%. We report for the quarter 1.7%, but the 1.7% includes 22 countries; the 1.85% includes nine countries.

We we believe that we can say that our basically market performance relative market performance has been stable across Europe, and we've neither lost nor gained, on average, share. In our biggest market in Germany, we actually have gained a little bit of share, and you've seen that the market is also slightly, let's say, positive.

This gives you a bit more context on the market. We believe that going forward that the premium beauty market in Continental Europe, don't talk about the Nordics, I don't talk about, let's say, the UK, because we don't operate there, but we would expect that the market will do around 3% growth in the two, three years ahead of us, around three, could be a little bit more, could be a little bit less.

The most important question for us is what is going to happen in France and Germany, because that is 50%-plus of our of our sales. That is kind of the market situation and the market expectation going going forward.

Marco?

Marco Giorgetta

Yep. Thank you very much, Sander, and welcome, everyone, also from my side.

As Sander just mentioned, we delivered a solid performance in a challenging market and economic environment this quarter. Our sales increased by 1.7% towards €1.67 billion, and our adjusted EBITDA decreased by 5.6% to €334 million, representing a 19.9% adjusted EBITDA margin.

Our sales development was uneven in the period, with a solid performance in November and its key events, Singles' Day and Black Friday, however generating a partial pull-forward effect of sales that we normally see in the Christmas business. This also has an impact on the mix of products sold in the quarter, with a greater share of items sold on promotion, and as Sander was mentioning, and for example, during our Black Friday or Cyber Monday, and a lower share of products sold at full price, therefore impacting the gross margins.

Additionally, as the store openings completed in the last year are still in a ramp-up phase, we see temporarily a slight margin dilution effect that should disappear once the stores reach their run-rate potential. Overall, the still challenging consumer environment drove heightened price sensitivity, which led to a decrease in gross profit margins by 120 basis points compared to a year ago, which is the main reason for the adjusted EBITDA margin reduction year on year.

My next slide is about our store and e-com sales trend. In the first quarter of the new financial year, we witnessed again a robust growth of our e-com sales at plus 4.2%, outpacing the stores that however grew plus 0.4%.

As a result, now e-com sales account for 33.9% of the group, up 80 basis points in share from a year ago. Total sales growth was driven by price, low-to-mid single-digit positive, while like-for-like volumes were negative, partially compensated by store space growth.

In fact, our store channel sales were driven by openings and refurbishments, while on a like-for-like basis, sales decreased by 2.8% versus prior year. As always, please bear in mind that in our definition of like-for-like, the majority of refurbishments are excluded, as the store remained closed for works for more than two weeks.

If we include refurbishments and relocation in a concept of same-store growth, the reported like-for-like number would be 0.5% higher. Furthermore, in our last call, we spoke about the growth of our omnichannel services, being Click & Collect, Click & Collect Express, and in-store orders, providing a seamless customer experience across our channels.

In Q1, they grew 17.6% versus last year to €79 million, representing approximately 4.7% of our total sales. These services continue to be a differentiating factor from our online competitors and nurture our most profitable customer base, which is the omnichannel one, delivering significantly higher frequency of purchase and annual spend.

Again, the allocation of these services is within the e-com channel, and if they were allocated to the store channel, this would improve by 1 percentage point the like-for-like of the stores. Furthermore, our Douglas app has performed very strongly in Q1, with more than a third of our e-com orders done via the app, and this contributes positively to our customer loyalty, but also value, as the conversion rate with the app is significantly higher than with the web shop, and generally, performance marketing costs are lower, ultimately generating higher value per order.

Let's now go to the next slide on our segment developments. Our four largest segments again achieved positive sales growth in the period, with the highest growth rate once again in Central and Eastern Europe.

By the way, you might have noticed that we changed the segment order, with CEE now being reported before SE, as it has now become our third-largest segment. This is also a positive contributor in our total EBITDA margins, as in CEE, we report the highest relative profitability, and therefore, the more CEE grows, of course, the better our blended average remains.

In DACH/NL, sales growth was driven by e-com with plus 2.6%, whereas store sales declined a bit below the 1%, driven by lower traffic. France delivered a resilient 1.2% growth, driven entirely by 7% 7.1% higher e-com sales.

In CEE, store sales rose by 5.4%, benefiting from 31 net store openings over the last 12 months, but also e-com sales for the segment were up by 13.6%, again with a very strong performance. In Southern Europe, sales increased by 0.6%, thanks to 4.5% e-com sales growth, whereas store sales were flat versus prior year.

Lastly, sales at Parfumdreams/Niche Beauty ended up 1% below last year. Moving now to the adjusted EBITDA margins on the right, margins declined across all segments, and this is mainly due to the early mentioned decline in gross profit margins.

The 200 basis points decline in DACH/NL region is also for 50 basis points attributable to a sublease income reclassification to the corporate headquarters segment, and this year-on-year comparability gap will be neutralized by the next quarter when finally the reporting will be comparable. PDM/NB shows a relevant margin decline, mainly due to the competitive pressure of online pure players and a phasing effect of marketing income and other items impacting positively the first quarter of prior year.

Now, as we've been focusing on the margin evolution year on year, I would like to talk about gross profit build-up and operating expenses detail. A consumer trading environment with a focus on pricing and promotions led to 120 basis points lower gross profit margin.

We've prepared this slide to help you understand how the different drivers impacted our gross profit and gross profit margin in the quarter. We did achieve sales volume growth in the quarter, which you find back as a positive volume impact on our gross profit development, the first bar of the waterfall on the left.

Supplier contributions were also in line with previous year in the quarter, in the third bar of the waterfall on the right, although leading to a minor dilution of 10 basis points as a ratio to net sales. Then, as you can see in the middle bar, that indicates that all the gross profit margin decline comes from the cash margin, mainly from increasing promotional pressure in most of the countries, resulting in over 100 basis points of margin dilution.

This, safe for a small rounding difference, leads to the 120 basis points margin decline versus prior year. Moving on to the next slide on the net operating expenses, our net operating expenses went up by 3% to €378 million compared to the same quarter a year ago.

Cost-control measures to safeguard profitability were offset by a temporary margin dilution related to the ramp-up effects of new stores performance, as we commented earlier. Staff costs increased by around 3% to €203 million, and the cost-to-revenue ratio was only slightly higher, again essentially due to the ramp-up of the openings, whereas on a like-for-like basis, this remains flat.

Our other net operating expenses were also up by around 3%, and inside, different dynamics, with net marketing expense ratio lower thanks to higher marketing income and stable expenses, confirming our overall investment versus prior year. Property expenses were slightly higher year on year on the back of our store network growth, whereas, again, on a like-for-like basis, property costs were in line with previous year as a percentage of sales.

Let's now go to the next slide with our P&L. I already walked you through our sales, gross profit, and operating expenses development.

Adjustments were again lower than last year in Q1, though I remind you we expect the full-year amount of adjustments to remain broadly in line with previous year. These all resulted in the adjusted EBITDA of €334 million, minus 5.6% versus last year, with a corresponding decrease in the adjusted EBITDA margin.

A small rounding difference bridges the margin delta between 21.5% and 19.9%, it's around 150 basis points. The D&A charges were up 8.6% as a result of higher depreciation related to right-of-use of our growing store network and new logistics facilities, but also because the investments that we've done in the last couple of years in the existing stores and warehouse fixed assets and IT.

Asset impairments included in this line item were up by just over a million to €1.4 million. For the sake of completeness, we're also now starting to show the adjusted EBIT view, and the difference between the adjusted and the reported EBIT includes, besides the EBITDA adjustments, also asset impairment, as detailed in the appendix for your information.

The financial result improved further, thanks to a combination of a lower net financial debt and lower average interest spreads on our financial debts, following the repayment of the bridge facility in March last year. Within the reported €29.3 million, €15.9 million is related to IFRS 16 lease liabilities financial expenses, compared to €14.4 million last year.

By difference, the interest paid on net financial debt amounted to €13.5 million, compared to approximately €20 million last year, confirming the positive effect of net financial debt reduction. The effective tax rate of 29.4% is our current estimate for the full year, which we apply across the quarters as long as this remains our best estimate.

Lastly, we report a net income of €145 million, which equals to an earnings per share in the quarter of €1.35. Let's now go to the next slide about the net working capital and CapEx.

Our average LTM net working capital decreased by €77 million to €168 million, which is 3.6% of our LTM months group sales. The improvement comes mainly on the back of our supply chain financing initiatives, whose average benefit amounted to €109 million, while one year ago, this was not yet in place.

You can find the exact amounts in the appendix of this presentation for your info on the supply chain financing usage. If we exclude the benefit of supply chain financing, we experienced a year-on-year increase in average net working capital, mainly due to higher inventory levels as a result of the store openings.

However, days of inventory outstanding remained broadly in line with last year at 122 days. In order to improve our inventory management, we are implementing several actions, including a new AI-driven system to calculate the stock redistribution needs between stores based on real-time demand, rebalancing the inventory to optimize capital efficiency.

This system is being tested in Germany for a potential future rollout across the group. Moving to CapEx, in the quarter, we opened a total of 15 stores and closed two, thereby lifting the total store count, including 129 franchises, to 1,972 stores.

Including store refurbishments and other investments, this resulted in a €6 million higher CapEx compared to a year ago. However, we confirm that we are pointing to a lower full-year CapEx level, as we guided already.

Therefore, in Q1, we're witnessing a different phasing effect compared to last year. Let's go now to the next slide about the free cash flow.

Our free cash flow after property rents amounted to €383 million. When you compare the year-on-year figures, you can see that the main deviation of free cash flow comes from the delta in adjusted EBITDA, with the other components remaining broadly in line as a whole.

Q1 is clearly the strong cash flow quarter, with significantly positive contributions from working capital, with the sale of goods that are in part paid to suppliers in Q2, and other positive provision movements, for example, VAT payments following the subsequent month of the sales. The next slide is about our net debt structure.

On this slide, you can see a snapshot of our sound financial structure at the end of December 2025. In the chart on the left, you can see the net debt structure, showing a significant reduction of the net financial debt from €789 million to €609 million.

The net financial debt reduction was entirely offset by an increase in lease liability by around €200 million versus prior year. This increase, as we have commented in the September Q4 call, is mainly due to the opening of the Hamm warehouse and 67 new store openings in the last 12 months, as well as contract renewal for existing stores.

This creates, of course, a front-loading effect, with lease liabilities placed on the balance sheet at the very beginning of the contract and not yet, let's say, having the EBITDA delivery of the store at the denominator. On the right-hand side of the slide, you see the development of the net leverage ratio.

Again, including the higher debt-related to lease liabilities, the ratio went up from 2.3 times to 2.6 times, also, of course, as a result of the lower adjusted EBITDA as denominator. However, if we calculate the net leverage on a pre-IFRS 16 basis, then we see a small improvement from 1.5 to 1.4 times, and this reflects our lower net financial debt for the reasons I described earlier.

I will now turn to my last slide with our full-year outlook. You will notice that the full-year guidance remains unchanged compared to what we saw in the Q4 call.

We still expect sales between €4.65 billion and €4.80 billion, and an adjusted EBITDA margin of approximately 16.5%, and net leverage between 2.5 and 3 times as of 30th September 2026. It's worth reminding that, as previously commented, Q1 of last year was our strongest quarter, and the year-to-go period now measures against softer sales and margin performance from previous year.

Whilst consumer confidence remains volatile, we're confident on the strength and proposition of our positioning, and we're working hard to deliver within the ranges of our guidance. This concludes my section of today's presentation.

Thanks for your attention. I will now hand the call back over to you, Sander.

Sander van der Laan

Thank you, Marco, very much. In the next section, I want to provide some color with relation to our strategy and certain highlights of the quarter.

On this page, you are seeing that we continue to develop our exclusive brand portfolio. Exclusive brands are really important for us from a strategic perspective, because those brands, you can exclusively buy at Douglas.

The competition doesn't provide them, hence there is also no price comparison, no margin pressure. Therefore, we strategically want to grow our, let's say, share of exclusive brands.

Under the leadership of our AMP lead, Stefanie, and the exclusive brand team, we continue to grow and develop this portfolio of exclusive brands. This quarter, we're going to launch a new makeup brand, about-face, which is basically with a celebrity behind the brand called Halsey, and we're going to launch a new fragrance brand, Orebella, and with both brands, we are exclusive and unique.

We will launch them this quarter, and we're going to be develop and grow those brands in the quarters and the years ahead of us. One important lever of our strategy.

Second important lever is to expand and develop our store network in the existing 22 countries. Like Marco said, we've opened net 13 stores in Q1, including store number 117 in Poland.

We refurbished 22 stores, but this includes also relocation, hence this number is slightly deviating from the number which Marco mentioned earlier. We are not planning to open new countries this year, but as we have communicated a few months ago, we are currently working on a potential entry into the Middle East, the GCC countries, basically Saudi Arabia, the Emirates, Bahrain, Kuwait, and Oman, but there is nothing further to report on this for today.

Like Marco also said, in Q1, there are basically three important, let's say, sales events: Singles' Day, Black Friday, and Christmas. Especially Black Friday was a very successful event, and you see some, let's say, key numbers in terms of volume and traffic and, let's say, results in the numbers on the right.

As Marco also was saying, we also have the feeling that customers are waiting a bit more for those events to buy a product or a brand for a better deal. We also have the impression that some of the December sales has been pulled forward into November, so that is what I was referring to impacting the volatility of our sales within the quarter.

On the next page, we wanted to give you some more insight, as Marco already said, on cross-channel services. Click & Collect, that is basically you go to a website, you select an item, and instead of shipping it to your house, you can pick it up in our stores, and once you're in the store, you might be seduced to buy something else, or you can ask a question, or we can basically build the customer relation.

That's delivered from the warehouse to the store. Click & Collect Express, that means you go to the website, you select a store, and you can select from the assortment of the store an item, which you can then order.

It's being order-picked in the store, and basically two hours later, you get to the store and you can collect the item. That's the express dimension, but you can only shop from the store-specific assortment.

Then thirdly, in-store orders: you are in the store, an item might be sold out in the store, or you want to buy something which we do not have in the store, but we have it online, and then you can order it in-store and you can either click and collect it or you can ship it to your home address. These three, basically, propositions, we are calling our cross-channel services.

Vis-à-vis the pure players, this is, I would say, a very strong differentiating factor. As Marco already said, these services are growing very significantly.

Also, we report them as part of the e-com channel. We could also report them as part of the store channel, but that's just an arbitrary choice which we've made.

Doesn't matter where we report them, what matters is that from a customer perspective, it works really, really well, and customers are happy with it. On the next page, as part of our proposition, both our customer proposition, but also our supplier proposition, we have developed a very healthy and rapidly developing retail media business units, with almost 50 people who are working on this, and we currently are active in nine countries.

If Chanel or Dior or L'Oréal Luxe really would like to advertise their brand messaging in a retail environment, the Douglas environment is basically the place to be. This part of our business continues to grow significantly faster than the topline of the company.

It is very, very profitable, it's also enhancing our EBITDA, and it continues to grow double-digit. Next element of our strategy is to, let's say, build a stronger operating model, and as part of the stronger operating model, we are simplifying our IT landscape.

Douglas is historically a company which had a lot of decentralized decision-making, and as a result of that, we are basically currently working with almost 700 applications across our 22 countries. That's way too many for a company which would like to work with an standardized and an harmonized operating model.

Hence, we are in the process of basically simplifying this, and we have defined our so-called group tech stack. Within those 700 applications, we have selected the preferred applications, and those preferred applications, we basically are rolling out across Europe, replacing basically local choices of the past or local legacy.

Basically, the dark-green countries on the slide, which is a significant portion of our business, are those countries which are now fully on our group tech stack. The countries with an arrow, Poland, Czech, Slovak, Hungary, and Lithuania, are the countries where we've recently implemented our group tech stack and basically retired our local legacy systems.

You can see the idea is that over the next few years, Europe is going to be painted dark green. By the way, Italy and France have a different color versus most of the others.

Why is that? Because in Italy and France, we are also on SAP, but we are on older version of SAP versus the dark-green countries.

At a certain point in time, we also want to move France and Italy to, let's say, the dark-green level. The message here is we are well on our way to simplify and harmonize and standardize the operating model of Douglas.

Similar message on the next page. What does it show?

On the next page, it shows that historically, we had basically in every country different payment providers, both on the store side and on the e-com side. We had probably close to 20 different providers in the store domain and the e-com domain on the left side of the slide.

Basically, we have now signed an agreement with a preferred payment provider, and you can see on the right side that more than half of our countries on the store side and already two-thirds of our country on the e-com side had migrated to this, let's say, preferred partner. Again, an example of simplification and standardization.

This is a process both in terms of IT and payment which will take a few more years. We are making investments, we're making changes, but it all should contribute to building a stronger, let's say, operating platform for Douglas.

To conclude, in summary, we believe that we have delivered a solid performance as Europe's leading premium beauty retail amidst a challenging market and economic environments. Our market keeps growing, albeit at a lower pace, with a flattish development in Germany and France, which weighs more heavily on our sales because more than 50% of our business is driven by Germany and France.

We do see a subdued consumer sentiment and increased price sensitivity, which leads to notable sales fluctuation and promotional pressure impacting our gross profits. We also see that the e-com channel is growing faster than the store channel.

There is more pressure in the store channel, not only at Douglas, but also in the wider market. E-com is boosted by the cross-channel services, as well as by strong performance of both our partner program and retail media.

We continue to invest in strengthening our USPs, unique selling proposition, towards our customers, the unique integration of off- and online, and the further development of the exclusivity of our brand range. We also continue to work on the future readiness of our operating model by the development of our store network and the harmonization of our IT landscape.

As Marco already said, our guidance for the full year 2025/2026 remains unchanged. With that, I want to move to one more slide, which is actually not a slide, it's the video.

It's actually a commercial, because we are today on the 11th of February, and don't forget in three days from today, it is Valentine, and that is very normal that you are buying something for your beloved ones. What is a better place to buy something at Douglas or Nocibé?

Please, operator, can you please move to the next slide and show the commercial?

Welcome to the roller coaster of love. Outcome?

Uncertain. Connected, in love, in doubt.

No matter the ups and downs, love makes it all worth it. Douglas.

Welcome to beautiful.

Marco Giorgetta

Okay. Thank you very much.

With that, operator, we wanted to move back to you, and we wanted to provide an opportunity for Q&A.

Operator

We will now begin the question and answer session. Anyone who wishes to ask a question may press * and 1 on their touchtone telephone.

You will hear a tone to confirm that you have entered the queue. If you wish to remove yourself from the question queue, you may press * and 2.

Participants are requested to use only handsets while asking a question. Anyone who has a question may press * and 1 at this time.

The first question comes from the line of Vandita Sood from Citi. Please go ahead.

Good

Vandita Sood

morning. Thank you for taking my questions.

I just had two. Firstly, I was just wondering on the development of your two new brands.

What is the structure in place? Would that be like a corporate brand or I guess the other question I had was, you're seeing promotional intensity pick up probably because people are getting a bit uncomfortable with all the price increases and waiting for promos.

Is this a good opportunity for you to sort of develop your own brands that are maybe premium, but at a lower price? Then my next question was just again, if you could comment on categories in this sort of a macro environment.

Do you see that maybe skincare is more resilient than, let's say, perfumes? Just what are you seeing in terms of category trends?

Thank you.

Sander van der Laan

Marco the question, Marco? Okay.

Vandita, first of all, thank you for your question. You asked a question about the two new brands.

Those brands are not being owned by us. We have signed an exclusive agreement to be the primary distributor of those brands in the 22 countries where we operate, and we are now in the process of launching those brands, I can't say anything about the first results.

In terms of promotional pressure and the promotional development, over the past few years, we have seen that many brands have increased prices, driven by the brand owners, and that has led to a disproportionate growth, I would say, of the prices in certain categories. We do see that certain customers are now becoming a bit more hesitant to buy those brands at the full price, hence they wait for the promo before they make the purchase.

We also see that a number of brand owners have understood that they have basically been too eager, I would say, to create value/increase the prices of their products, and we can also see that some of the brands are taking initiatives by launching different propositions against on average lower prices. We do believe that our own brands portfolio, let's say, provides an opportunity, let's say, for customers to buy a good premium beauty product for a lower price.

At this point in time, we do not see an acceleration, let's say, of our corporate brand growth. Your last question was about categories.

If I make it kind of simple, I said we've seen a slowdown of the growth in the markets. Basically, we see this slowdown across fragrance, skincare, and color.

Haircare is an exception, because haircare is basically growing double-digit from a market perspective in most markets, but that is mostly driven by the fact that more retailers, and we are leading that, are starting to basically add the haircare category to basically our store network. With every store we open or we refurbish, we're adding the haircare category, and we're also adding brands.

One of our fastest-growing brands, by the way, in haircare is Kérastase. Haircare is significantly growing.

Fragrance is our biggest category, and for a number of years, we've seen that fragrance has grown ahead of the total market. We still see that the fragrance category is growing, but the fragrance growth is kind of normalizing.

We also got some questions recently, is there kind of a fragrance fatigue at customer level? We don't see that.

If the growth is slowing down or the growth is normalizing, I wouldn't consider that a fatigue. When you look to skincare and makeup, let's say, the performance of this category is a bit mixed by country.

There's not one European trend to be stated about skincare and fragrance.

Vandita Sood

Brilliant. Thank you.

Sander van der Laan

With that, we move to the next question, for the next person.

Operator

The next question comes from the line of Geoffroy Melichon-Meller from Bank of America Securities. Please go ahead.

Geoffroy de Mendez

Yes, good morning, Sander and Marco. Thank you very much for taking my question.

You've talked a lot about exclusive brands on the call, and I was just wondering if you can provide us with what percentage of sales is currently coming from exclusive brands and how this has grown maybe compared to last year. If possible as well, can you give us a bit of an outlook as to where you would like this percentage of sales to get to, because obviously I think this is quite a support potentially for the gross margin going forward in a more promotional environment?

That's my first question. Then the second question, if I may, you've spoken about the performance of the categories already, but is there a difference in the markdowns or the promotion activity across the categories, and can you be a little bit more active within the store base to bring forward the categories that are maybe less promotional?

Is that something that you're working on?

Sander van der Laan

Okay. Marco will take the first question, and I will take the second question.

Marco Giorgetta

Yeah. Hi, Geoffrey.

Good morning. You're right, corporate brands and exclusive brands are a key element for our strategy to differentiate and safeguard the margins on on the industry brands.

The two of them combined represent a share of sales which is today in the mid-teens, slightly above, let's say. Of course, the vast majority is still third-party brands, but our focus is really to grow on this share, and primarily it represents a growth in the, I would say, exclusive brands in our expectations, because with the corporate brands, we do cover a a good share of the let's say offering, especially in the skincare and makeup categories.

We do expect also the corporate brands' share or or sales to outgrow a bit the total top line, but not as fast as the exclusive brands. Now whether you you ask if if it's going to become a a let's say a majority, no, this this combined sales share, but we do expect it on a medium-term basis to become closer to a quarter around this level.

Sander van der Laan

Okay. On your second question, your question was if we see a change in the promotional dynamics between categories, and I would say no.

I cannot say that the promotional dynamics are now fundamentally different for fragrance versus makeup in comparison to the quarters before. Your second part was if we cannot move customers in the stores towards, let's say, the less promotional brands or maybe more the margin-enhancing brands, and the answer is yes.

We are working on that, and clearly, we are instructing our almost 16,000 beauty advisers and informing and motivating them to basically get customers' focus on the brands which are the most unique and with the more attractive, I would say, profitability. At the same point in time, many customers walk into the store with their smartphone in their hand, while we're talking about a product, they are looking online for, let's say, okay, what is the competition offering?

This transparency in terms of pricing clearly makes it more difficult, let's say, to do the sales pitch, but yes, we are working on that.

Geoffroy de Mendez

Thank you very much.

Operator

Okay. Yashraj?

The next question is from Yashraj Rajani from UBS. Please go ahead.

Yashraj Rajani

Hi, good morning. Thank you so much for taking my questions.

I've got two from my end, please. The first one is maybe just it will be helpful to try and understand what level of growth we've actually achieved in the second quarter to date, just to try and understand better as to what we are underwriting for the second half to get to your guidance.

Maybe just to follow up to that would be what gives you confidence that the underlying premium beauty market will actually have a recovery in the second half? That's the first question.

Then the second question is more to do with your SG&A. Obviously, to get to again your EBITDA margin guidance, right, there's probably a bit of margin improvement that you're underwriting in the second half, which is probably coming from the cost savings.

Can you maybe give us some quantification of what those cost savings might be and which areas they might come from to again better try and understand the mix between gross margin and SG&A improvement to get to your EBITDA guidance? Thank you.

Sander van der Laan

I will take the first question, and Marco can take the second question. I did not completely understand your first question, but let me give an attempt in my answer.

We did, let's say, 6. 6% growth in Q1 last year.

Yashraj Rajani

Last year, we did 6.5% excluding Disapo.

Sander van der Laan

Okay, 6.5% in excluding Disapo in Q1. In the rest of the year, Q2, Q3, Q4, we did around 1-ish percent.

Yashraj Rajani

1.7%.

Sander van der Laan

1.7% growth for the remaining nine months, with a negative Q2 and an improvement in Q3 and Q4. We are now cycling, let's say, a tougher Q2, and slightly better Q3 and Q4 are ahead of us.

That is basically the reason why Marco said that we believe that our sales outlook is now cycling softness in last year, hence we are more optimistic about our ability to grow the sales in the remainder of the year. That is not so much driven by an expectation of the improvement of the market.

We expect basically a continuation of, let's say, from a Continental Europe perspective, of the growth which we currently see. I said already earlier, we expect around 3% for the next few years.

I did not say 3% for the next nine months. That could also be 2.2% for the next nine months, or I don't know.

That would be too speculative. Basically, our financial planning is based on these assumptions.

Marco, the SG&A?

Marco Giorgetta

Of course. You're right, Yashraj, to reach basically the guidance in the year to go, to be an improvement, well, both in the sales and in the margins.

As much as we are cycling against a softer sales base, we're also cycling against a softer gross profit margin trend. Of course, we have an underlying assumption to be able to stabilize this trend.

In reality, we do factor in a slight margin dilution in the gross profit level also in the year to go, to be compensated with SG&A efficiency. In this case, we expect let's say stores to ramp up into a run-rate let's say performance, and therefore improving what we have witnessed so far, but also, let's say general cost consciousness.

Not a let's say headline assumption to reduce certain costs or cut certain costs, but in any case, a continuous focus on our spend. This is in fact resulting into OpEx actually performing slightly better in Q1 than our planning in our budget.

Therefore, in the year to go, let's say if you do the math and wanted to reach 16.5%, you would need 30, 40 basis points of EBITDA margin improvement, which let's say in the best possibility, that should come from a better SG&A efficiency.

Yashraj Rajani

Got it. That's super clear.

Thank you so much for your answers.

Operator

For any further questions, please press * and 1. The next question comes from the line of Jürgen Kolb from Kepler Cheuvreux.

Please go ahead.

Jürgen Kolb

Thank you very much indeed. Three quick ones.

First one on current trading and Q2. Obviously, here in Germany, the weather conditions have been quite snowy and cold.

I was wondering if you've seen any customer traffic declines in your stores as a consequence there and maybe by the same token, maybe an improvement in the online business just from current trends? One quick comment.

Secondly, you mentioned that France and Italy still using a different SAP system. When do you think you can upgrade it to the rest of the pack so that you have a harmonized SAP system?

The last one on inventories. Inventories have increased, obviously.

Maybe a quick comment on how you feel the inventory situation looks like. Is there maybe also a little bit of a gross margin risk or pressure that which may hamper the gross margin going forward in order for the inventory level to go back to a more normalized level?

Thank you.

Sander van der Laan

Let me take then the first question, and you take the second and the third. Jürgen, thank you for your questions.

On the current trading, we can say that the pattern in January was very similar to basically the development in Q1. Yes, we did see significant impact in terms of traffic driven by weather conditions, not only in Germany, but also in Spain, in Italy, in Sicily, in Poland.

There has been a lot of snow or water or wind in many countries. We also have seen a very positive development of the e-com channel, let's say, which is offsetting a part of that.

We see between weeks different traffic patterns, when there is a lot of snow, people don't get to the store, and then the week after, they're catching up, picking up a little bit. Our current trading, the start of this quarter, is very similar to Q1.

Marco Giorgetta

Okay. Then taking the second and the third question.

On the ERP, France and Italy, we're currently in let's say the middle of a planning phase for a more significant upgrade to, well, S/4HANA. We're currently running on ECC as let's say the group tech stack.

What we're assessing now is the convenience of rolling out the current tech stack also to big countries such as Italy and France versus developing the new S/4 HANA rollout and therefore roll out directly an upgraded let's say future-proof system. Most likely, it will be the second.

That would entail a little longer time, let's say, to roll out into Italy and France, and it's in any case a priority of our mid-term planning let's say to reach to an upgraded IT landscape across the group. On the inventory, Jürgen, I commented earlier you're right, year-on-year basis, spot as of the end of December, I think inventories are up 6% on a year-on-year basis.

Let's say, when we, of course, not measure the spot, but the average to do that DIO calculation, it's slightly lower because the end of December is, of course, highly dependent on really the last two weeks of sales and trading, and therefore, you need some time to, let's say, readjust the working capital. We are putting in place actions to improve our rotation, as I mentioned.

Even with new tools to optimize the inventory rotation. Let's say, so far in terms of stock quality, we don't see a let's say, a meaningful or notable, let's say, deterioration that would hint at a potential risk of impairments, write-downs, or necessity to invest a cash margin to let's say reduce inventories or liquidate stock.

We're rather tackling it with let's say efficient supply chain and better tools to let's say allocate the stock where it's needed, basically.

Jürgen Kolb

Got it. Super.

Thank you very much, very helpful.

Operator

The next question comes from the line of Nick Barker from BNP Paribas. Please go ahead.

Nick Barker

Good morning, and thank you for taking my question. Just one for me.

You've performed very strongly online through the e-commerce channel, but taking a step back, what are your thoughts on TikTok Shop and agentic AI? Do you see these becoming long-term threats to your business?

Any comments on that would be grateful. Thank you.

Sander van der Laan

Shall I answer that?

Nick Barker

Yeah.

Sander van der Laan

The TikTok Shop, clearly we're following that closely, and we have seen that in the United States that has been a phenomenal, I would say, success, but we don't operate in the United States. The TikTok Shop has now also arrived in Europe and in Continental Europe in a number of our key markets.

At this point in time, we do not see a lot of traction in the TikTok Shop with premium brands, with products which have a higher, I would say, price versus the fast-moving consumer goods brands which you might buy in a drugstore. TikTok is a very important social media channel, we fundamentally embrace that and we are doing a lot with TikTok, but we are currently withholding when you talk about the TikTok Shop.

Agentic AI is clearly going to create a revolution in the world. We are not only following it closely, but we are also working on a number of plans and initiatives, and I would say it provides as many opportunities as potential threats, but ultimately, we believe that we are well-positioned with our omnichannel proposition, let's say, to benefit and/mitigate these developments.

Nick Barker

Thank you very much.

Sander van der Laan

You're welcome, Nick.

Operator

The next question comes from the line of Adam Cochrane from Deutsche Bank. Please go ahead.

Adam Cochrane

Hi, good morning, guys. It's a question on the product cycle.

How are you feeling about the sort of product development coming from your suppliers? There was a period over the last few years where in skincare there was a lot of new dermatological products, there was a number of new fragrance launches.

Are you finding that there's less new, exciting products coming into the category than maybe we saw over the last couple of years, and are you led to believe at least that your suppliers are going to start to improve and increase the new products coming through? Then the second question is the performance of the category in the US appears to have been relatively robust compared to some of the weakness in Europe, and given that's a global category, would you say this is largely just down to difference in the sort of macroeconomic conditions rather than anything more specific?

Thanks.

Sander van der Laan

Let me take them. Thank you, Adam, for the question.

When you talk about the product cycle, If you take a step back, during COVID, and the whole world was basically closed, and also the beauty brands were very hesitant in launching new stuff. When basically the world reopened, including our store network, there was a really big boom of innovations which were basically sitting in the pipeline for two years.

In the following two years, we've seen a lot of new products, new brands, new stuff arriving. I think it is fair to say that in the recent year, year and a half, we see a slowdown in terms of newness, let's say, in the category, and that is also partly impacting the slower growth of the market.

We do see a number of, I would say, brands or segments which are still very hot, a brand like Sol de Janeiro is doing really well at Douglas, Rituals is doing really well at Douglas, the Korean brands are doing really well globally, including at Douglas. That is all helping.

I made the point already that the haircare category and Kérastase is doing really well at Douglas. It's also fair to say that some of the more, let's call it classical brands, are having more challenges in growing their sales.

Chanel is not reporting externally, but Dior is reporting externally, Clinique, Estée Lauder are reporting externally. Those classical brands have, I would say, a very soft development on average, and part of that is driven by a reduction in the innovation pipeline of these brands.

Moving towards the US, I do think that in the United States also, premium beauty has slowed down versus the post-COVID boost, but I also do agree that based on what we see, and to be honest, we don't buy reports from the United States, I have to use external sources for that, but I do see that premium beauty is doing a bit better in the United States versus in Europe. Yes, I do believe that the general macroeconomic development in the United States is contributing, let's say, to that.

I do think that the European consumer is more hesitant, more concerned, driven by the political developments, by the way, from the United States, but also the developments on the east side of Europe around the Ukraine. That makes our customer and consumer base more concerned and more hesitant in their willingness basically to spend money.

With that, I think thank you, Adam, for your questions. We are coming to an end.

Operator, I don't see any more people in the line, I would like then to wrap up. To conclude, we believe that we have delivered a solid performance in not an easy environment, but both the top line and the bottom line of Douglas, I would say, are in relatively good shape versus the rest of the world.

Current trading in this quarter is very similar in the first, I would say, month versus what we delivered in Q1, despite the challenging weather, let's say, conditions. We believe that our omnichannel strategy is provide a competitive platform and complete competitive, I would say, framework to continue to grow our company going forward.

We maintain our guidance for the current financial year, and we look forward to see you, let's say, in three months from now to report back on the second quarter. With that, I want to say don't forget it's Valentine's Day on the 14th of February, three more days.

douglas.de or douglas.nl or nocibe.fr in France are all at your disposal to buy beautiful brands from our group. Have a good day.